Paris

Arc de Triomphe

appy Birthday Doris! Here we are in Paris. This is not our first trip here. We have been here two times before, so our goal is to absorb some of the environment and fill in the tours of things we missed on the previous visits.

We had originally planned to rent an apartment in Paris. In fact we did. We were supposed to be here in September of 2001. The company we rented from would not grant any kind of refund, so we had the apartment for a week but it stood vacant.

Unwilling to take the chance again, we decide to do a hotel on this trip. In the past we have stayed at a hotel called Le Etoile Maillot. It is located near the Arc de Triomphe in an excellent location. This time however we want to be on the Left Bank.

Herb, Doris and Joyce

Our guides and sources for many of the items we consider a success on this trip are Herb and Joyce Johnson. They travel in France every year and Herb speaks French fluently. We want to express our special thanks to them. Based on their recommendations we have had great accommodations and great food.

In Paris they recommended the Hotel Des Grandes Ecoles. While Herb and Joyce have not yet stayed there they have looked it over and think it would be a great hotel and location. It is located on the Left Bank a short distance from the Pantheon. We make reservations for this hotel.

Our train arrives in Paris from Lyon and we grab a taxi to the the hotel. It is beautiful. A nice courtyard off of a busy street give the entire hotel a sense of privacy and separation. We are excited. I check in. We have no reservations! I pull out my confirmation confident there is but a minor mis- communication. Our reservations prove we have a room reserved for five nights at the Hotel Des Ecoles. We are deflated.

The clerk graciously orders us at taxi and assures us that the Des Ecoles is not too bad. She takes a note for Herb and Joyce who are in Paris and will stop by in the afternoon.

Hotel Des Grandes Ecoles
Hotel Des Ecoles

You will note from the pictures there is a difference. We check in to the Des Ecoles. It is a good Left Bank location but the hotel is a bit of a rabbit warren. We are, of course, on the top floor. The elevator will not carry two people. In fact it will not carry one person and luggage. Not a good ride if you are at all claustrophobic. The lobby is dark and the breakfast room is more like a jazz club than a place to start the day. We are not happy campers. Room rate: € 119

Herb and Joyce show up in the afternoon and we take off on a hike. We meet up with some other folks that are traveling with Herb and Joyce, they have rented an apartment so we go to the apartment and then to dinner.

After dinner we come back to the hotel and determine to find a new place tomorrow.

The next morning we all gather in the Montparnasse area to do lunch. We are going to Bistro Du Dome. It is a famous Paris restaurant and is huge. I would guess they can seat 400 people. Lunch is outstanding. € 60 - a bit high for lunch for two, but then this is a famous Paris restaurant. Besides that it was worth it.

Herb takes us on a tour of hotels in the Montparnasse area. There must be ten or so in a two block radius. We look at several. Doris and I settle on the Hotel Le Brea. This is an outstanding hotel at the same price as the Des Ecoles. It is easily three times better. We make reservations for the next day. We even upgrade to a deluxe room that is a bit larger. € 150 per night. It is an extravagance but we know from past experience that the days of walking and site seeing wear you out. It is important to have a safe haven that is comfortable for relaxation. The Le Brea is at rue Le Brea and Montparnasse. About a block from Du Dome and La Coupole. The Montparnasse station is two blocks away.

In all we spend five days in Paris. Some highlights of this visit follow.

Luxemborg GardensThe Luxemborg Gardens

This grand palace now houses the French Parliament. We did not go in but the grounds constitute a large park. The park is full of neat spots including a large pond, wooded area and more. It is beautifully kept.

A feature of the park is a large playground for children. Pictured here is a rope net pyramid that kids can climb. They seem to love it.

There are many more such play items. This stuff would be outlawed in the US as too dangerous.

 

Market Near Notre Dame

We stumbled into a market near Notre Dame. These guys were there as well. I don't know for sure if they were for sale, but it was a market. The French do like their food fresh.

The Invalides

Napoleon's Tomb: From Napoleon's will, "It is my desire that my ashes rest on the bank of the Seine,amongst the French people whom I loved so much"

Musée de l'Armée: The main goal is to perpetuate the living memory of the French Army and serve as the national conservatory of ancient arms.

Both the Tomb and Museum are impressive. Plan on spending at least four hours. The arms and armor collections are outstanding.

Rue Cler

Rue Cler has been getting a lot of attention from Rick Steves for the last two to three years. We wandered through the area but unfortunately it was after the noon closing of the market. Not much was open.

We did find a restaurant and have a decent lunch at a fair price.

Since this street has had so much hype, Jerry remains suspicious, but we would like to go back when the market is in full swing and see for ourselves if it lives up to Rick's promise.

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