he rain starts as our TGV nears Lyon. It is not bad, but we grab a taxi to take us to our hotel.

We are staying at the Hotel La Residence. it is between the Saône and the Rhône rivers and close to place Bellecour. Located in a pedestrian street, the hotel is in the center of Lyon. This is a prime requirement for being in any city. We are walking distance to almost any site of interest.

Thanks again to Herb & Joyce Johnson for recommending this hotel. These are great rooms and we pay only € 57 per night. Check out their web site.

We get issued an umbrella by the hotel and take off to explore. It is May 1st and combining that date with the upcoming elections we find the streets full of demonstrators. The rain does not seem to bother them.

We cross the bridge into the old part of the city and take a funicular to the top of the hill overlooking the city. The cathedral is perched here.

At the top are Roman ruins. They are working to restore this old amphitheater.

Further on is the Cathedral. We walk the paths that climb the hill until we come out on top. It is raining so hard that we can see little and are a bit wet and cold. At the top we find a coffee shop and take a break.

Back down the hill we explore the shops in the old part of the city. The streets are narrow and full of interesting places. The rain has let up a bit but we are still a bit wet and chilly so we find a nice patisserie and take another break.

Lyon is famous for its food. It is supposed to be the best in France. We have picked another "Bib Gourmand" from the Michelin Red Guide. Tonight we eat at a Paul Bocuse restaurant named Le Nord. It is in walking distance of the hotel and the rain is on and off so we walk.

Le Nord is a beautiful but contemporary brasserie. They even have a non-smoking section. We have pastis to settle our stomachs, foie gras as appetizers, Doris has Escalope de Veau and Jerry has roast lamb. We have a pot of St. Emilion wine and then follow the dinner with a rum baba which we split. Jerry has coffee. It was as good a meal as we have had on the trip thus far--maybe the best. (€ 93.10)

We walk back to the hotel and check our email. The hotel provides free high-speed internet access to its guests.

DAY TWO

More exploring. We walk all over Lyon, check out the tourist information office and have a great time poking about in the stores. We have been told of a store that makes the very best chocolates in all the world, so off we go. It is a long walk and across the other river. We search and search. Even with the address we are unable to locate the place. By this time it is mid afternoon and all the shops are closing.

We take a taxi to the War Resistance Museum. The museum is full of high school age kids. They all appear to have some assignment relative to their visit here. It is an interesting museum. Worth a visit if you are in Lyon.

Dinner tonight is a restaurant that was recommended by Herb and is also a "Bib Gourmand". It is the Au Petit Bouchon, Chez Georges. Do not confuse this with the famous Lyon Restaurant named Chez George. They are not the same. Our hotel clerk did not understand the difference and warned us against Chez George as being in a bad part of town and not living up to its reputation.

Au Petit Bouchon, Chez Georges, is in the same area as Le Nord so we are able to walk there in light rain. We now carry two umbrellas. The name Bouchon is an important piece of information. Bouchons are traditional taverns and although many places will call themselves an Bouchon there are only 22 official Bouchons in Lyon. They are considered as casual and reasonable eating establishments. Chez Georges is one of those.

We arrive at the restaurant. It is only about 7 PM so we are the first there. We are greeted by the owner. The entire restaurant is about the size of our living room and is casual. The owner takes our umbrellas and drains them. He has a bit of a twinkle in his eye and enquires if we understand French. We are able to communicate that we can read a menu and not much else.

The restaurant rapidly fills up. Counting Doris there is only one other woman customer. The owners wife is the chef.

The highlight of dinner was a unique chicken liver salad. This was a fantastic dinner. As we were relaxing and waiting for dessert, the owner produced a copy of the New York Times for December 2000 and an older copy of Sauver magazine. Both had photographs from the restaurant and rave reviews. He was quite proud of the coverage. Do not miss this restaurant if you are in Lyon. One of the best parts, the cost for the two of us was € 58.

Tomorrow is Doris' birthday. I am taking her to Paris - beat that!

<- Back | Next ->
Home | Previous Page