n our way to Cesseras we stopped at Narbonne in hopes of finding the market open so we could stock up on some food items. Alas, we were too late. The market was closed.

In France things close down around 1 or 2 PM. In fact we had to beg at a restaurant to get them to stay open and serve us. Actually they were quite gracious and the cook agreed to stay a bit late and fix our lunch.

So, by Sunday, we were eager to check out the area and find some sort of market to stock the lauder. We piled into the cars and took off to the North.

This route took us through small towns located in very hilly and wooded terrain. Not many vineyards on the first part of this loop drive but lots of steep hills and narrow roads.

This is Cathar country and there are a lot of old forts on the top of the hills.

Eventually we made our way to the village of St. Pons. It had an open market, a wine shop and a specialty foods store. Nirvana.

We had lunch at a little place called La Croix Blanche. It was OK for most of us but quite busy. We had to sit outside in a breeze. The surroundings were nice, but I think Blanche was taking the day off.

Doris ordered a pizza. It must have come out of a box - the frozen type. It tasted a bit of cardboard. This was the only unsatisfactory meal we had in France. Lucky for the rest of us that Doris was the only one to order the pizza.

At the market we found fruits and vegetables and various odds and end need for food prep at home. The ladies were taken with a wide assortment of oilcloth. Fancy patterns unavailable in the the US.

This bench is in a small plaza across from the market in St. Pons. Peg and Cliff are taking a short break as Lori prepares to cross the street to go shopping.

Back on the road, we head for Minerve

Minerve is a miraculous village perched over the meeting of rivers. It sits where rivers tunnel through deep gorges. Perched like a survivor, that it is, marking the massacre inflicted by Simon de Montfort during the crusades against the Cathars in France in 1210. After the surrender of Minerve 140 Parfaits who had taken refuge, were burnt at the stake, because they refused to deny their faith.

Minerve is an interesting town to walk through. The walls drop off to the river far below. There are interesting shops and sites.

Doris loves old doors. This one at the end of an alley is full of character.

We attempt to get dinner reservations at the Relais Chantovent. It is listed as a "Bib Gourmand" in the Michelin Red Guide. On Sunday afternoon the place is packed and very loud. No tables are available for this evening. We make reservations for Tuesday.

We did come back on Tuesday. In this section we will mention, from time to time, the cost of meals in restaurants. Dinner for six - five courses with a very good wine was € 193.60. It was a bargain and the food was outstanding. We found another spot, Troubadours, and had a glass of wine while enjoying the view.

As we leave Minerve we stop and take a look at Les Aliberts just outside of Minerve. It is another rental property and one we had seriously considered while researching the area. We think that Cesseras is a better find, but Les Aliberts does have some nice offerings. Check out their web site.

We head back home and have some pastis to settle our stomachs. Challenged with where to go for dinner we resort to the information provided by Bernard. There is a book and a lot of restaurant cards at the house. We settle on Lo Cagaroi in the town of Aigne, about 3 miles away. It has some good recommendations.

Dinner there is excellent.€ 158.50 with all the trimmings, wine and desert. Our waitress was from Belgium.

On to the Monday excursion.

<- Back | Next ->
Home | Previous Page